Exit Push Release Button Panel for Electric Door Strike

Specifications:

• A new style of useful door button
• It is compatible with most access control/locking devices
• Ideal wall switch for use around hallways, staircases and porches
• Perfect design for home use, also can widely used in office, garage and so on
• It is made of sturdy plastic
• Color: White
• Dimension: 8.6 x 4.3 x 1.6cm/3.4 x 1.7 x 0.7in(L x W x T)

Details:

• This electric door strike is specifically designed with durable plastic material to provide durability and tamper resistance

• This door electric strike is a new style of useful door button which is compatible with most access control/locking devices

• Open function of this door strike plate makes it easy to operate the push button. And with simple and practical design, this electric door strike is easy and convenient to use and install

• This electric door strike is the ideal wall switch for use around hallways, staircases and porches

Size in Detail:



How Does an Electric Strike Work?

• Print this article Electric strikes enable a door to be automatically opened or closed.

Access control refers to a system used to grant access to resources or areas in a facility or system. An electric strike is a type of electrical access control system.

Doors

• Electric strike devices are specifically used for door applications. The electric strike device replaces the fixed strike faceplate, or metal plate that attaches to a door jamb and includes holes used by the door bolt. Electric strikes possess a ramped surface, enabling the door to close and latch via the locking latch. The electric strike's surface pivots away from the direction of the latch upon receiving the proper signal, which enables the door to be opened from the outside without the need to operate the door knob.

Fail-Secure

• Fail-secure, also referred to as non-fail safe or fail-locked, is a type of electric strike which opens a door after receiving an electric current. Fail-secure electric strikes can be powered via DC (direct current), a type of low-voltage current that flows in one direction, or via AC (alternating current), a higher voltage current that can switch directions. AC-powered fail-secure electric strikes "buzz" during the door-opening operation. DC-powered fail-secure electric strikes units provide silent operation.

Fail-Safe

• Fail-safe electric strikes lock when electricity is applied to the strike. Fail-safe electric strikes only operate via DC power.

Electric Door Strike Installation

• Print this article Electric strikes allow more flexibility when securing a door.

An electric strike is a hardware device that uses an electronic signal to determine when to release a lock bolt. Installers wire these devices to work with buzzers, card readers or electric locksets. When the connected device is operated correctly, it sends a signal to the electric strike to automatically release the lock bolt and unlock the door.

Choosing an Electric Strike

• Choose your electric strike based on the type of locking device you are working with, whether it is a mortise lock, cylindrical lock or exit device. Most electric strike manufacturers also require you to select the faceplate for your strike separately from the strike itself to match the locking device. Choose the right faceplate to fit the lock on the door, then attach the faceplate to the strike using the screws provided. The holes for these screws are typically pre-drilled in both the strike and the faceplate, making it easy to determine where they should be placed.

Adjusting the Strike

• An electric strike can be fail-safe, which means it will unlock if the power goes out, or fail-secure, which means it will automatically lock if power is lost. Each strike can be adjusted to perform either of these two functions, and the adjustment is slightly different on each model. Flip the switch on the strike to change from one function to the other as required, or consult your installation manual for more information. If you are installing the strike on a fire-rated door, it must be set to "fail-safe."

Prepping the Door Frame

• The easiest way to prepare your door frame for an electric strike is to request that the frame is prepped at the factory by the manufacturer. You will need to tell the manufacturer which strike you plan to use. If the frame is already on site, use the template provided with your strike to adjust the cutout in the frame as needed to fit the strike. Use a jigsaw with a carbide-tipped blade to enlarge the preps as needed.
• Using a metal drill-bit, pre-drill holes for the strike as directed on the installation template. Many strikes are designed to fit in the standard holes already drilled in the frame, so this step may not be necessary.

Installing the Strike

• Run the power supply wiring through the door frame so that the "pigtail" connector reaches to the strike installation location. Insert the pigtail connector into the strike to supply power. If you have a secondary wire that connects to a card reader or buzzer, connect this wire to the strike as well. Often, this wire is joined with that of the power supply and fed through the same pigtail connector. Consult an electrician for wiring help if you need assistance, or refer to the wiring diagrams that come with your strike.
• Carefully feed the wire(s) back through the frame so it is hidden from view, then insert the strike into the cutout. Use the screws provided to fasten it to the holes in the frame. Shut the door and check the spacing between the door and the lip of the strike. If the space is too large, remove the strike and insert wooden shims between the strike and the door frame, then reinstall the strike. If this space is too small, use a metal file to shave the frame down a bit to move the strike further from the door.
• When the strike is in the correct location, the door should open and shut without catching the lip of the strike. The lock bolt should fit completely into the strike to keep the door locked and secure.

About Exit sign:

• Early exit signs were generally either made of metal and lit by a nearby incandescent light bulb or were a glass cover that fit directly over a single-bulb light fixture. The inherent flaws with these designs were that, in a fire, the power to the light often failed. In addition, the fixtures were small and dim, making them hard to spot in a fire where smoke often reduced visibility. Better signs were soon developed that more resembled today's modern exit sign, with an incandescent bulb inside a rectangular-shaped box that backlit the word "EXIT" on both sides. Being larger than its predecessors, this version of the exit sign solved some of the visibility problem. The sign was only useful as long as main power remained on
• As battery-backup systems became smaller and more efficient, some exit signs began to use a dual-power system. Under normal conditions, the exit sign was lit by main power and the battery was in a charge state. In the event of a power outage, the battery would supply power to light the sign. It continued to discharge until main power returned to the unit or the battery was no longer able to provide sufficient power to light the sign. Early battery-backup systems were big, heavy, and costly. Modern systems are lightweight, can be installed virtually anywhere, and are integrated into the fixture, rather than requiring a separate box. As batteries improved, so did the amount of time that a fixture could remain lit on batteries
• While exit signs were more visible due to large letters, even a 60-watt bulb shown through a plastic or glass cover (see image), appeared somewhat dim. With the development of fluorescent lamp and light-emitting diode technology, exit signs could be made even brighter to show up in the limited visibility of a fire situation, and/or use less electricity. LED signs work by combining a large number of bright light-emitting diodes to illuminate the sign from inside. Fluorescent bulbs work in the same way as incandescent bulbs, back-lighting both sides of an exit fixture from the inside. Because an exit sign is constantly lit, fluorescent bulbs need to be changed more often than LEDs. As a rule, LEDs have a very long life, and may last for 10 years or more of continuous use, although the brightness may diminish. Incandescent bulbs are still in use, because they are cheap and common, even though they use more electricity and require frequent replacement. In recent years, radioluminescent and phosphorescent signs require no electricity have also been developed. Radioluminescence uses the radioactive decay of tritium to light the sign, while phosphorescence uses light-emitting phosphors to glow in the dark. While both of these signs meet California State Fire Marshall standards, where practical, electricity is used in the vast majority of signs

Package Included:

• 1 x Switch Button