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An automatic charger is designed to power the transformer when you first plug it into a receptacle. The automatic charger needs to "see" at least 4 volts in the battery to power up the circuitry. This initializes the charge sequence. When a completely discharged battery, or one with less than 4 volts charge remaining, is attached to the charger, the charger never "sees" this battery and will not begin the charging cycle. It will also cancel out the Engine Start function. The yellow charging light will also not come on. The meter (where used) will remain in the default "100%" position.
In order to get past this mode, you can "jump start" the battery so to speak, by momentarily connecting another fully charged battery in parallel. This will allow the charger to "see" a higher initial voltage enabling it to begin the charging sequence.
NOTE: Batteries that remain lower than 4 volts state of charge are often defective or just worn out. It is always best (safer) to check the battery with a hydrometer or Schumacher tester before charging.
In cold weather, a battery's chemistry changes and gives the battery charger a false voltage signal. When this happens, remove the battery from the vehicle and move it to a warm location to warm up before charging. Never charge a frozen battery.
If the charger has a deep-cycle setting, try charging the battery for a short period of time at a higher, amperage charge rate. Then, try starting the vehicle again.
Three reasons:
1. The electronic control circuit board and LED lights use a minor amount of battery power to operate and to determine the battery's state-of-charge. This results in the battery charger having to periodically charge the battery back to full charge. Consequently, the green light goes on and off as this process occurs.
2. All batteries have some internal power losses, which the charger is replenishing similar to #1.
3. The length of time that the green light is on is dependent on the battery type, its rated capacity, the degree of discharge, its age, and temperature.
