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- Startup Voltage: 3V
- Normal Voltage: 6-8V
- Running Speed: 2500 Switch/minute
- Material: Damascus Steel
- Coils: 10 wrap coils
- Size: 8.5 x 3.2 x 8.6cm /3.3 x 1.3 x 3.4 in (L x W x H)
- 10 wrap coils, quick change guillotine tube vise
- Professional handmade tattoo machine equipped with an all steel frame
- Damascus steel casting process, a molding, the dazzling appearance, special surface treatment
- Coil using the latest technology
- Bouncing stable, strong magnetic back seat and so on
- Professional liner tattoo machine equipped with an all steel frame. Tattoo Machine is built with a longer front spring to help soften your machines touch
- A longer spring and a wider gap for smooth, soft shading with minimal power required
- Smooth and soft action allows the maximum coverage with the least amount of needles work on the skin
- You can easily surprise anybody with such a Best Tattoo Machine. When you attend a special party or any carnival, this copper tattoo machine will bring you a big surprise
How to Tune a Liner Tattoo Machine:
Tuning a tattoo machine for lining means mounting the proper needle and setting the speed. Tattoo machines are precise pieces of equipment that create body artwork. Different types of tattoo elements require different techniques and setting up of the machine in a specific way, called tuning. Lining is the outline of the tattoo. Typically, this is applied deeper and heavier than some of the shaded areas of the tattoo.
- Hold your tattoo machine so the coils are at eye level. Press down on the armature bar and see if the front coil top touches the armature bar as it comes down before the rear coil makes a connection with the bar. If it does not, or if they hit at the same time, you need to adjust and shim your coils. Shims can be purchased from a tattoo supply or hardware, and will raise the coil so that the front bar touches the armature just before the rear coil. The standing gap between the front coil and the armature bar when not moving should be about the thickness of a dime, or 1 mm.
- Remove the retaining bar on the contact screw on the top back of the tattoo machine. Adjust the speed of the machine by turning to to the left to make it slower, which is preferable for lining, or to the right for faster if it is adjusted too slow. If your machine has a volt reading around 6 volts is preferred for lining speed. Replace the retaining bar on the screw.
- Adjust the spring tension to make a shorter or longer stroke. This controls the needle stroke, and a medium, short, stronger stroke is what you are looking for in heavier work like lining.
- Lay out the tube, the blister pack needle, and rubber bands. Tattoo needles for lining should be pointed needles, not flat.
- Put on the latex gloves before handling the sterile machine pieces. Open the sleeve the tube is in and place it on the work area. The work area should be covered by a clean, disposable cloth.
- Open the blister pack with the sterile needle in. Make a slight bend in the needle so that there will be tension when it's mounted in the machine. Not a corner bend, just a slight curve.
- Slide the needle into the tube, so that the curve is facing back towards the machine. Mount the hook end of the needle over the pin on the machine and set it in place.
- Wrap the rubber band around the needle arm and around the back of the machine to increase the tension on the needle. Turn the machine on and adjust the speed according to the type of lining you will be doing. Heavier lining should have a bit more speed and depth than fine lining.
How to Build Tattoo Machine Coils:
Wrapped coils, made from insulated copper wire and iron, are the electromagnetic backbone of any tattoo gun. The coils come in three different sizes, 8, 10 and 12, which refers to the number of layers of wire wrapped around core of the coil. More layers means a more powerful gun, since the coil conducts electricity. For example, an 8-wrap coil powers a tattoo machine that uses smaller needles, while a 12-wrap coil powers a tattoo gun with larger needles. You can wrap your own coils at home or by using a coil-winding machine, and the coils are purchasable online.
- Hold the plastic bobbin by the widest end with one hand.
- Wrap the insulated copper wire two or three times around the wide end with your other hand, leaving about 4 inches of wire sticking out.
- Wrap the wire around the bobbin, being careful to keep the coils tight and close together. You should not be able to see any part of the bobbin's body after you wrap the wire.
- Pull the wire back to the other side of the bobbin, and begin winding it again. Each layer of wire should start at the same end. You must wind the wire at least eight times to create the minimum strength wrap coil. If you have a coil-winding machine, you can substitute mechanical coil winding for the first four steps.
- Leave another 4 inches of wire sticking out of the bobbin, and wrap the coils with one layer of electrical tape. This will prevent the coils from electrocuting you and hold the wrapping in place. There should now be two 4-inch wires coming out of the starting end of the coil.
- Cut a 1-inch shrink-wrap sleeve to fit around the coil. Heat the shrink-wrap so it is tightly around the coil.
- Repeat steps 1 through 6 to create a second wrap coil.
- With the two wrap coils next to each other, twist the two starting wires together. These are the wires you left sticking out when you began wrapping the coils.
- Push the remaining two wires to the back of the coils. With the coils laying on a table, the front wires will be on top and the back wires should be on the bottom.
- Use a wire cutter to cut the wires to the correct length. You must measure this length depending on the tattoo gun you use.
- Use a soldering gun to burn the insulation away from the ends of the two back wires. You should remove about ¾ inch of insulation.
- Place rubber insulation around the two back wires, leaving ½ inch of wire poking out.
- Bend the wires towards you, and align them with the solder lugs. This step may require a wrench or holding device so you can safely solder the wires to the lugs and capacitor.
- Place the capacitor so that each end can be firmly soldered to the wires and soldering lugs.
- Solder the wires, lugs and capacitor using a soldering gun. At the same time, solder the front twisted wires together so they will not come apart.
- Use a ¼-inch shrink-wrap sleeve to shrink wrap the base of the soldering lugs. This will ensure that the machine does not short out.
How to Setup a Tattoo Machine:
There are several ways to set a machine and I'm going to go over how I was taught (which is relatively old-school). First we will discuss the liner, then the shader.
- If your power supply isn't connected, do all that and clip to your liner first via the rear posts. I run my liner at 8.5 (approx) volts on short throw (the contact screw is barely leaning back towards my hand and the overall stroke depth is very short) with a slight cut back. If you've ever been tattooed enough to remember the sound of the machine this will come easy: loosen the lock screw on the front contact binding and set the dime between your contact screw and your spring. bring the screw down til it barely touches your nickel and tighten the lock screw. Run the machine at your typical lining speed and it should sound close to what you're looking for. if not, loosen the lock screw while the machine isn't running and barely adjust the screw (with a tight grip! the screw moves alot when it's not locked down while the machine is running!) up or down to your preference.
- unplug your liner and hook up to your shader via the posts. I run my shader at roughly 7 volts with a decent mid range throw, semi-long cutback. doing the same as step one, loosen the lock screw and rather than using the dime, use the nickel this time to gap your contact to your spring. If this isn't the gap your prefer, adjust and lock down the screw to lock the contact screw in place.
- break down the power supply, clean your machines with a disinfectant spray (such as Citrace) and stow them away until needed or begin work!
How Tattoos Work?
- Not too long ago, most Americans associated tattoos with sailors, bikers and sideshow artists. But tattoos have become more popular in recent years, and the people who get them are as diverse as the styles and designs they choose. And some people who would never think of tattooing pictures or symbols onto their bodies use permanent make-up - a type of tattoo - to emphasize their eyes and lips
- Artists create tattoos by injecting ink into a person's skin. To do this, they use an electrically powered tattoo machine that resembles (and sounds like) a dental drill. The machine moves a solid needle up and down to puncture the skin between 50 and 3,000 times per minute. The needle penetrates the skin by about a millimeter and deposits a drop of insoluble ink into the skin with each puncture
- The tattoo machine has remained relatively unchanged since its invention by Samuel O'Reilly in the late 1800s. O'Reilly based his design on the autographic printer, an engraving machine invented by Thomas Edison. Edison created the printer to engrave hard surfaces. O'Reilly modified Edison's machine by changing the tube system and modifying its rotary-driven electromagnetic oscillating unit to enable the machine to drive the needle
Modern tattoo machines have several basic components:
- A sterilized needle
- A tube system, which draws the ink through the machine
- An electric motor
- A foot pedal, like those used on sewing machines, which controls the vertical movement of the needle
- When you look at a person's tattoo, you're seeing the ink through the epidermis, or the outer layer of skin. The ink is actually in the dermis, which is the second layer of the skin. The cells of the dermis are far more stable than the cells of the epidermis, so the tattoo's ink will stay in place, with minor fading and dispersion, for a person's entire life
Precautions specific to tattooing include:
- Checking gloves for pinhole tears during tattooing, since petroleum-based ointment erodes latex
- Pouring ink in advance, using clean tissue to open ink bottles during tattooing and preventing nozzles from touching contaminated surfaces
- Patting tubes dry after rinsing during color changes - never blowing excess water from them
- Spraying liquid soap into a tissue, not directly onto bleeding area, since blood can become airborne when the spray hits it
- Giving pens used for drawing on the skin, which should be medical grade and sterile, to the client Tattoo artists must also take special safety measures regarding their hands. Gloves help prevent disease transmission from bodily fluids, but bacteria thrive in the warm, damp environment they create. This means that artists must: Wash hands thoroughly and often. Inspect hands for cuts or sores and cover them with bandages. Remove hangnails and keep nails short to prevent punctures to gloves. Refrain from tattooing when experiencing lesions, dermatitis or allergic reactions
The tattoo itself involves several steps:
- Outlining, or black work: Using a single-tipped needle and a thin ink, the artist creates a permanent line over the stencil. Most start at the bottom of the right side and work up (lefties generally start on the left side) so they don't smear the stencil when cleaning excess ink from the permanent line
- Shading: After cleaning the area with soap and water, the artist uses a thicker ink and a variety of needles to create an even, solid line. Improper technique during this step can cause shadowed lines, excessive pain and delayed healing
- Color: The artist cleans the tattoo and then overlaps each line of color to ensure solid, even hues with no holidays - uneven areas where color has lifted out during healing or where the artist missed a section of skin
- Final cleaning and bandaging: After using a disposable towel to remove any blood and plasma, the artist covers the tattoo with a sterile bandage. Some bleeding always occurs during tattooing, but most stops within a few minutes
- Be sure to let your artist or piercer know about your condition so that they can tailor the actual experience and aftercare tips for you
- The aftercare period is crucial to lifelong enjoyment of your tattoo or piercing
- Already prone to infection, diabetics must be vigilant about keeping their new bodily addition clean and covered
- 1 x Shader Tattoo Machine
General Model HB-WGD015 Spec Condition New Type Shader Tattoo Machine Material Damascus Steel Operating Voltage 6-8V RPM 2500 Switch/minute Coils 10 Features Features Superior liner tattoo machine
10 wrap coils, quick change guillotine tube vise
Professional liner tattoo machine equipped with an all steel frame
Damascus steel casting process, a molding, the dazzling appearance, special surface treatment
Coil using the latest technology
Bouncing stable, strong magnetic back seat and so on
Packaging Package Included 1 x Shader Tattoo Machine
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Bought this item on06-23-2011
- Other Thoughts: Ordered one, then ordered two more.. Bargain deal and nice tattoo machines. Will need major adjustments before using but overall A++++
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Eric A. Berghman
Bought this item on06-14-2011
- Other Thoughts: It is built well, the balance is good, and it's a good looking machine. I guess if you "ride the tube", it may work marginally ok for you if you run it at voltages not recommended in the product description. I wish I could have had a better experience with the machine. Hopefully, they will redesign it so it can be used as a tattoo machine, and not a novelty to hang on the wall.
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Bought this item on06-08-2011
- Other Thoughts: Ok this is a knock off of the swash drive but it runs the same as my swashdrive gen 6 so people learn 2 work with them b4 u knock em. i find at 6 volts it works great for my color portraits any rotary machine sold today works better with lab power supplies ask any1 who has a stigma hyper or swashdrive machine. as far as lineing i cant lie i still think its better 2 use a coil machine. bottom line love swash drive and stigma hyper's but their machines are over priced. hammer rotary is a nice little machine packs color in very well and runs smooth. the fact that it has swash plate tech makes it run better then rotary's with a cam or crank. all in all very happy with this machine will be buying 2 more.
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Bought this item on05-29-2011
- Other Thoughts: We just got this baby and took it for a test drive my pinto coil wrap runs a bit bumpy but this upgrade is like cruising in a new Cadillac. A+
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Bought this item on05-20-2011
- Other Thoughts: this is a wonderful working little tattoo gun, came fast, just as described and pictured. already used it and very dependable.
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Bought this item on05-06-2011
- Other Thoughts: It does come with everything that is promised. I would say that this is an excelent buy, and would recomend this to any novice tattoo artist
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Bought this item on04-21-2011
- Other Thoughts: this product is a great starter kit if you know what your doing allready, i would not recomend using it in human skin.
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Bought this item on04-08-2011
- Other Thoughts: I bought this Tattoo Machine for my husband, who is an apprenticing tattooist. It works well, and he like it.
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