Specifications:
- The audio power amplifier comes with boot-strap delay and eliminate concussion functions
- This car power amplifier is low-pressure to start-up, easy and convenient to install
- This product is suitable for upgrading for the original car audio
- This power stereo amplifier is convenient to you life
- It is a good helper for your car audio
- This audio power amplifier can improve your quality of life
- Size: 4.4 x 2.1 x 2.6cm/1.7 x 0.8 x 1.0in(L x W x H)
Details:
- This audio power amplifier comes with small shape which is easy to install
- The cable of this car power amplifier is durable for a long time use
- This amplifer time delayer comes with multi functions which is useful
- A practical time delayer must be a good helper for your daily use in car audio
- Small size is another merit for your installing and it is convenient to carry
How to Install Car Amplifier:
Preparation
- Choose where to put your new amp. If you are installing subwoofers it's usually best to put the amplifier in the trunk next to or attached to your subwoofer enclosure. If you are going to power your main car speakers with the amplifier then it may be better to put the amp under the passenger's seat
- Purchase the following wiring for the amp: A thick power cable (the thickness required depends on the total wattage of your amp, ask a sales rep or consult your amplifier's manual for the proper gauge) that will have to reach from your battery to the amp (the power cable should also have an inline fuse to protect the amplifier); 3 feet of ground cable of equal thickness as the power cable; an RCA signal cable to carry the left and right signals from your head unit to the amp; a "remote on" wire which can be any thin wire (20 to 24 gauge) that will also run from the head unit to the amp; speaker wire (if you are powering subwoofers you should only need about 3 feet of 12-gauge wire per sub, if you're going to power your main speakers you will need enough 16-gauge wire to reach each speaker from the amp, 12 feet per speaker is usually safe)
- Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers, wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, a utility knife, sandpaper, masking tape with a pen for labeling, 2 crimp-on o-ring ends for the power and ground cables. If you're hooking the amp to your speakers, you'll also need 2 crimp-on female spade connectors for each speaker
- Find a manual with instructions on taking off the dash of your car (not the whole dash--just the head unit, in order to hook wires to the back), and also to get at your car's speakers if you are hooking the amp to them
The Installation
- Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery. Never work on the electrical system of your car with this connected
- Attach the side with the fuse of the thick positive (+/red) power cable to the connector on the positive terminal of your battery; the o-ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery. Now put the fuse in the fuse holder
- Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the driver's side) and to your amplifier. If your amp is in the back it is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car. Be careful where you run the wire because the power cables should never be near the signal or speaker wires
- Find a metal bolt or screw on the metal of your car near the amp to connect the ground cable to. This should be as close to the amp as possible, never more than 3 feet. Unscrew it and clean the metal surface with sandpaper. Attach the ground to it with the o-ring and screw it back down firmly
- Remove your head unit and run the signal and remote on wires from behind the head unit to your amp. Connect the RCA connectors and the remote on wire to the back of your head unit
- (If you are installing subwoofers and not running your normal speakers off the amplifier skip to step 7.) Run the 16-gauge wire from each one of your speakers to the amplifier. On the amp side use the masking tape to label each wire so you know which speaker it is. On the speaker end-strip a 1/4 inch off the ends of the wires and crimp on the female spade connectors with your pliers. Connect the spade connectors to your speakers making sure to match the positive (+/red or white) with the positive terminal and the negative (-/black) with the negative one
- Connect everything to your amplifier. Only strip off as much as you need off the end of each wire to make a solid connection, you don't want any exposed wire hanging out. If you have subs, attach them to the amp with the 12-gauge speaker wire
- Secure your amp to something. If it is in the back you can screw it directly to your subwoofer enclosure. If it is under a seat you may just want to get some straps that hold it down
- Reconnect your car's negative cable to the battery. Test your system and make sure everything works, going around to see that every speaker is on before you put everything back together
- Put everything back together
How to Power a Car Amplifier With a Power Supply?
Powering a car amplifier with a power supply, such as a charged car battery, requires two steps. The amplifier acts as any circuit and needs negative and positive supplies in order to work. The power wire, equipped with a fuse, runs all the way up to the car battery and connects to the positive terminal, completing the positive supply. The ground wire bolts directly to the vehicle's body, completing the negative supply, thus powering the amplifier
Instructions:
Connecting the power wire
- Connect the power wire to the amplifier by plugging in the power wire's amplifier input into the amplifier's power output. It should be labeled on the amplifier, but if not, refer to the amplifier's wiring diagram for the power wire output's location
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for safety reasons and run the power wire along to the front of the vehicle underneath the dashboard area, such as near the brake and acceleration pedals
- Fold the carpeting back if necessary and look for a hole in the vehicle's body that will allow you to run the power wire through into the engine bay. You may have to cut a hole through the firewall with an X-Acto knife in order to complete this step
- Run the power wire through the hole and into the engine bay and connect the power wire's power source input to the positive terminal on the battery. You can do this by disconnecting the positive terminal and bolting it back on over the power wire's power source input. Install a rubber grommet around the hole to prevent water from leaking into the interior
- Connect the fuse to the power wire if necessary by plugging it in. Most power wires already have the fuse connected. The fuse should be installed as close to the battery as possible because in the case of a short circuit, the wire will burn up to the point of the fuse
Connecting the ground wire
- Mount the amplifier in a cool, well-ventilated area such as the trunk to prevent overheating
- Connect the ground wire's amplifier input to the amplifier. Refer to the amplifier's wiring diagram if you can't figure out where the ground output is located
- Find a nut or screw within 18 inches of the amplifier. This is what you'll connect the ground wire to
- Unscrew the nut or screw and chip away any paint on the body of the vehicle around the screw to give the ground wire direct access to metal
- Place the ground wire's lead, which is shaped like a circle, over the hole the nut or screw was bolted into and bolt the nut or screw back over the ground wire to complete the circuit
Package Included:
- 1 x Amplifier Time Delayer
